What Are the Different Gemstone Cuts?

Asscher cut diamond engagement ring with halo and pave band in white gold

Gemstones are the heart and soul of jewelry. They bring vibrant color, dazzling light, and an unmatched aura to any piece, whether it be an engagement ring, a pendant, or a bracelet. But what truly makes a gemstone sparkle? The answer lies in its cut. Gemstone cuts not only define a stone's shape but also its brilliance and ability to reflect light. Today, let's take a closer look at some of the most popular gemstone cuts and what makes each one unique.

Round:

The Round Brilliant Cut is the most popular and timeless shape, accounting for the majority of diamond sales. It features 58 facets that are designed to maximize light reflection, making it exceptionally brilliant and sparkling. The round shape is ideal for engagement rings due to its classic appearance and superior fire and scintillation. It offers a balanced look and works well with most settings.

Brilliant Cut:

The Brilliant Cut is designed for maximum brilliance and sparkle, with facets arranged in a way that reflects the most light. It is most commonly associated with the round shape, but the term "Brilliant" can be applied to other shapes (e.g., oval, marquise, heart). The cut features 58 facets, including a flat top (table), and is engineered to enhance the stone’s fire and scintillation. This cut is the most popular for diamonds, especially in engagement rings, because of its ability to maximize a gemstone's sparkle.

Princess:

The Princess Cut is a modern, square or rectangular shape with sharp, uncut edges. Its brilliance comes from its modified brilliant-cut facets, giving it an intense sparkle. The princess cut has an edgy, contemporary appeal and is a favorite for engagement rings. The sharp corners require a protective setting, as they are more prone to chipping compared to other cuts.

Cushion:

The Cushion Cut, also known as the "pillow cut," has a square or rectangular shape with rounded corners, giving it a soft and romantic appearance. Its larger facets enhance the gemstone's brilliance, but it has a more subtle sparkle compared to the round or princess cuts. Cushion cuts have been popular for over a century and are well-suited to vintage-style settings. They are known for their ability to emphasize the gemstone’s clarity and color.

Emerald:

The Emerald Cut is a rectangular shape with step-cut facets, which create long, parallel lines and give a "hall of mirrors" effect. Unlike brilliant cuts, the emerald cut emphasizes clarity and transparency over sparkle. It’s a sophisticated and elegant shape, often chosen for its understated glamour. The large, open table makes inclusions and color more noticeable, so a higher-quality stone is recommended.

Oval:

The Oval Cut is an elongated version of the round brilliant, offering similar brilliance with a unique, slender profile. Its elongated shape creates the illusion of greater size, making it popular for those who want a diamond that appears larger. The oval cut also flatters the wearer's hand, often making fingers appear more slender. It has a brilliant facet pattern, making it very sparkly.

Marquise:

The Marquise Cut, also known as the "navette," is shaped like a boat, with pointed ends and an elongated body. This cut is designed to maximize carat weight, creating the illusion of a larger stone. Its long, narrow shape also makes fingers look more slender. However, the points can be fragile and require protective prongs in the setting. The marquise has a brilliant cut, giving it a sparkling appearance.

Pear (Tear Drop):

The Pear Cut is a combination of the round and marquise shapes, with one rounded and one pointed end, resembling a teardrop. It offers a unique and elegant look with excellent brilliance, similar to the round cut. The pear shape is often used in earrings and pendants due to its elongating effect. It can be worn with the point facing up or down, offering versatility in design.

Asscher:

The Asscher Cut is similar to the emerald cut but has a square shape with step-cut facets. This cut is known for its vintage, art-deco appearance and is prized for its deep clarity and luster. Its cropped corners give it an almost octagonal shape. The Asscher cut tends to highlight the stone's clarity, so higher-quality stones are ideal for this cut. It creates a stunning geometric sparkle with a timeless appeal.

Radiant:

The Radiant Cut combines the brilliance of a round cut with the squared shape of an emerald or princess cut. It features trimmed corners and brilliant-cut facets that maximize sparkle. Radiant cuts are often chosen for their versatility, as they offer the fire of a round cut in a square or rectangular shape. This cut works well in both solitaire and multi-stone settings and hides inclusions better than step cuts.

Heart:

The Heart Cut is the ultimate symbol of romance and love. This shape is one of the most difficult to execute due to its complexity and symmetry. It has a brilliant-cut facet pattern and, when well-proportioned, offers plenty of sparkle. The heart shape is more often seen in pendants and earrings but can also be used in rings as a statement piece.

Trillion (Trilliant):

The Trillion Cut is a triangular-shaped gemstone with rounded or sharp corners. It can be used as a center stone or as accent stones. Trillion cuts are brilliant-cut, offering plenty of sparkle, but their shallow depth can make them appear larger than other cuts of the same carat weight. They are typically set with prongs on the corners for protection and are ideal for modern and geometric designs.

Baguette:

The Baguette Cut is a long, rectangular shape with step-cut facets. Often used as accent stones, baguettes have fewer facets and a more subtle sparkle compared to brilliant cuts. They are usually found in multi-stone settings or eternity bands and are valued for their sleek, minimalist look. Baguette cuts can come in tapered or straight shapes.

Hexagon:

The Hexagon Cut features six sides and has been gaining popularity in recent years due to its unique, geometric look. It offers a more contemporary aesthetic and is often found in custom or artisanal designs. Hexagonal cuts can be brilliant or step-cut, and their angular shape adds a distinctive, edgy appeal to jewelry.

Octagon:

The Octagon Cut is an eight-sided shape that combines geometric precision with an elegant, vintage flair. This cut is usually step-faceted and is more commonly used for colored gemstones and antique-style jewelry. Its angular shape gives it a unique, bold appearance while maintaining a classic feel.

Rose Cut:

The Rose Cut is an antique style that dates back to the 16th century. It features a flat base with a dome-shaped top covered in triangular facets. The rose cut does not have a pavilion (the bottom part of the stone), which means it reflects less light than brilliant cuts. However, it creates a soft, romantic glow and is often found in vintage or antique-style jewelry.

Briolette:

The Briolette Cut is a pear-shaped or oval-shaped gemstone that is fully faceted, with no flat surface. Its continuous, multi-faceted surface makes it ideal for use in dangling earrings and pendants. The briolette cut is often used for its dramatic sparkle and is popular for colorful gemstones in jewelry designs.

Criss Cut:

The Criss Cut is a modern, rectangular shape known for its step facets that run diagonally across the stone, creating a crisscross pattern. This unique design enhances the diamond's brilliance and sparkle by reflecting light in a distinctive way. The Criss Cut combines the sleek lines of an emerald cut with added fire and brilliance due to the crisscross facet pattern, making it an eye-catching choice for those seeking a contemporary and unique gemstone.

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