What Inclusions Should You Avoid In Diamonds?

When shopping for diamond jewelry, whether it's an engagement ring, diamond studs, or a tennis bracelet, understanding inclusions is crucial to selecting a beautiful, high-quality stone. Diamonds are nature's miracles, formed under extreme pressure and heat deep within the earth, and nearly all contain some inclusions - those tiny imperfections that make each diamond unique. While some inclusions are harmless, others can affect a diamond's beauty, durability, and value. At Robinson's Jewelers, we want to help you make an informed decision when selecting your perfect diamond.

In this comprehensive guide, we'll explore which inclusions you should be cautious about, which ones are generally acceptable, and how to evaluate them when viewing diamonds. Whether you're considering a solitaire pendant, halo ring, or eternity band, this knowledge will help you choose the best diamond for your jewelry.

Surface-Breaking Inclusions to Avoid

Some of the most concerning inclusions are those that reach the diamond's surface. These can weaken the stone's structure and make it more susceptible to damage:

Feathers: These are small cracks within the diamond that resemble feathers. While tiny feathers might not be problematic, larger ones that reach the surface, especially near the girdle (the diamond's widest edge), can make the stone more prone to chipping or breaking.

Chips: These are small pieces missing from the diamond's surface, often caused by impact. Chips are particularly concerning when located at the girdle or pointed ends of fancy shapes like marquise or pear-cut diamonds.

Cavities: These are holes or openings on the diamond's surface that can collect dirt and oil over time, affecting the stone's brilliance. They're particularly noticeable in larger sizes.

Visible Inclusions That Affect Appearance

Some inclusions might not affect durability but can significantly impact a diamond's beauty:

Black Carbon Spots: These small, dark inclusions can be very noticeable, especially in higher clarity grades where you wouldn't expect to see such obvious imperfections. They can detract from the diamond's sparkle and brilliance.

Large, Visible Crystals: While some crystals can add character, large or dark crystals positioned near the table (the diamond's top flat surface) can be distracting and reduce the stone's overall appeal.

Clouds: When numerous tiny inclusions cluster together, they can create a hazy area in the diamond. While small clouds might not be problematic, large or dense clouds can affect transparency and brilliance.

Inclusions That Affect Durability

Some inclusions can compromise a diamond's structural integrity:

Cracks and Fractures: These internal breaks can weaken the diamond over time, especially if they're large or numerous. Fractures that reach the surface are particularly concerning.

Knots: These occur when a diamond crystal reaches the surface during the cutting process. They can create weak points where the diamond might chip or break.

Bearding: Tiny hair-like fractures that occur around the girdle during the cutting process. While often minor, excessive bearding can weaken the diamond's edge.

Location Matters: Where Inclusions Are Most Noticeable

Even less concerning inclusions can become problematic based on their location:

Table Inclusions: The table is the large, flat top surface of the diamond. Inclusions here are most visible to the naked eye and can significantly impact the stone's appearance.

Center Inclusions: Imperfections located dead center under the table tend to be more noticeable than those near the edges or pavilion (bottom) of the diamond.

Step-Cut Diamond Inclusions: Diamonds with step cuts like emerald cuts or Asscher cuts have large, open facets that make inclusions more visible compared to brilliant cuts that help hide imperfections.

Generally Acceptable Inclusions

Not all inclusions are problematic. Many are perfectly acceptable, especially in certain clarity grades:

Pinpoints: Tiny white dots that are usually only visible under magnification. They rarely affect a diamond's beauty or durability.

Needles: Long, thin crystal inclusions that resemble tiny rods. When small and few in number, they're typically not visible to the naked eye.

Twinning Wisps: These are lines that result from growth irregularities during the diamond's formation. While they might be visible under magnification, they often don't affect the diamond's appearance when viewed normally.

Internal Graining: Subtle lines caused by irregular crystal growth. When minimal, they're usually not noticeable and don't impact durability.

Choosing the Right Clarity Grade

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) clarity scale ranges from Flawless (FL) to Included (I3). Here's what to consider:

VS1-VS2 (Very Slightly Included): These diamonds contain minor inclusions that are difficult to see under 10x magnification and typically invisible to the naked eye. They offer excellent value.

SI1-SI2 (Slightly Included): These have noticeable inclusions under magnification, but SI1 stones often appear clean to the naked eye. SI2 stones may have visible inclusions, so examine them carefully.

I1-I3 (Included): These diamonds have obvious inclusions that affect beauty and possibly durability. They're less expensive but may not be suitable for fine jewelry like engagement rings or diamond studs.

Expert Tips for Evaluating Diamond Inclusions

When shopping for diamond jewelry, keep these tips in mind:

View the diamond in different lights: Examine it under various lighting conditions to see how inclusions appear.

Ask for a plot diagram: Reputable jewelers provide a clarity plot that maps a diamond's inclusions.

Consider the setting: Certain settings like bezel settings or halo settings can help hide inclusions.

Trust your eyes: If you can see an inclusion without magnification and it bothers you, consider a higher clarity grade.

At Robinson's Jewelers, our gemologists are happy to guide you through the selection process, whether you're choosing a solitaire pendant, tennis bracelet, or the perfect engagement ring. Remember, while inclusions are natural, understanding which ones to avoid will help you select a diamond that's as beautiful as it is durable.