The Secret Codes Hidden in Historic Jewelry Designs: Unlocking the Romantic, Rebellious & Ridiculously Clever Messages in Your Favorite Pieces

Ever feel like your vintage jewelry is trying to tell you something? That’s because it probably is! Long before texting and emojis, people were sending secret messages through their bling—and we’re not just talking about obvious stuff like heart pendants. We’re diving into the wonderfully weird world of historic jewelry that served as coded communication, from “regard” rings that spelled out compliments to serpent rings that screamed “I’m eternal and also maybe a Slytherin.” Get ready to look at your grandmother’s ring collection with entirely new eyes—and maybe discover that what you thought was a simple ruby ring is actually a Victorian-era burn.

The practice of embedding secret meanings in jewelry dates back centuries, but it reached its peak of complexity—and sheer drama—during the Georgian and Victorian eras. Why? Because talking about your feelings was apparently super awkward in the 1800s, but spending a fortune on a gem-encrypted love note was considered perfectly normal. Romance, rebellion, and even political alliances were all expressed through clever designs and specific stone selections. It was like a Pinterest board you could wear, but with way higher stakes and significantly more corsets.

Speaking in Stones: The Language of Gems

Forget the alphabet—the real OGs were using gemstones to spell out their deepest affections. The most famous example is the “acrostic" jewelry. The first letter of each gemstone spelled out a secret word. A “REGARD" ring, for example, wasn’t just a pretty bauble. It was a full-on compliment, spelled out in sparkly minerals: Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond. Talk about putting a ring on it! Other popular phrases included “DEAREST" (Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, Topaz) and the more direct “LOVE" (Lapis Lazuli, Opal, Vermarine, Emerald). Finding one of these today is like discovering a centuries-old text message frozen in time and gold.

Serpents, Skulls & Flowers: Symbolism Run Wild

It wasn’t just about the stones. The motifs themselves were loaded with meaning. To the Victorians, everything had a secret identity. A snake, for instance, symbolized eternity and everlasting love (thanks to its ouroboros form), which is why Queen Victoria’s engagement ring from Prince Albert was a coiled serpent with an emerald set in its head. Skulls and skeletons, often seen in memento mori jewelry, weren’t meant to be goth—they were a reminder to live life to the fullest. “Hey, you’re gonna die someday, so maybe buy that diamond bracelet?”

Flowers were also a huge deal. The entire “language of flowers,” or floriography, was translated into jewelry. A forget-me-not meant true love and memory, ivy signified fidelity and friendship, and a daffodil... well, that meant unrequited love. So if someone gave you a daffodil brooch, it was basically the 19th-century equivalent of getting left on read.

Mourning Jewelry: Macabre but Meaningful

If you think our modern-day grief rituals are intense, wait until you hear about Victorian mourning jewelry. After Prince Albert died, Queen Victoria went into perpetual mourning, and a whole nation followed suit. Mourning jewelry became a sophisticated art form. Jet, onyx, and dark garnets were used extensively. Pieces often incorporated the hair of the deceased, woven into intricate patterns under glass. It was a way to keep a literal piece of your loved one close—a practice that’s equal parts creepy and incredibly sweet. This was the ultimate “in memoriam" piece, far more personal than a simple initial ring.

The Hidden Compartments & Lover’s Eyes

For the truly sneaky, some jewelry featured hidden compartments. Locket rings, for example, could conceal a tiny portrait, a lock of hair, or even—gasp!—a poison. Meanwhile, “Lover’s Eye" jewelry was a bizarre and intimate trend. Instead of a full portrait, a miniature painting of just your beloved’s eye was set into a pendant or ring. It was anonymous enough to not cause a scandal if you were having an affair, but recognizable enough to the recipient. Talk about a knowing glance!

Bringing Historic Secrets into Modern Style

The fantastic news is that you don’t have to scour antique shops to wear jewelry with meaning. Many of our designers at Robinson’s draw inspiration from these historic codes. You can find modern anniversary bands that use birthstones to represent family members, or charm bracelets that tell your personal story. The tradition of symbolic jewelry is alive and well—we’ve just swapped out the poison compartments for more practical features.

So, the next time you’re looking at a piece of jewelry, remember: there might be more to it than meets the eye. It could be a secret message, a declaration of love, or a reminder of one’s own mortality (cheery!). Whether you’re drawn to the romanticism of a Victorian-inspired piece or the clean lines of a modern Roberto Coin creation, you’re participating in a long, storied history of wearing your heart—and your secrets—on your sleeve (or your finger, or your neck). Now, if you’ll excuse me, I need to go see if my pearl necklace is actually calling me a crybaby in 18th-century French.