The Jewels of the Victorian Era: A Look at Mourning Jewelry and More - Secrets of Queen Victoria's Grief & Romance

Ever wondered how jewelry could tell a story of love, loss, and everything in between? Welcome to the Victorian era, a period where your accessories weren't just about sparkle—they were about substance. When Queen Victoria's beloved Prince Albert died in 1861, she didn't just don black clothing; she sparked a nationwide trend that transformed personal grief into wearable art. The Victorians had a flair for the dramatic that would put our modern emoji reactions to shame, turning their jewelry boxes into emotional diaries filled with serpentine symbols of eternal love, locks of hair from departed loved ones, and gems that spelled out secret messages. Let's unravel the fascinating tales behind these exquisite pieces that said so much without uttering a single word.

What makes Victorian jewelry so endlessly captivating today isn't just its craftsmanship—it's the raw humanity behind each piece. In an age before texting and social media, jewelry served as the ultimate form of emotional expression, from the giddy romance of young love to the profound depth of lifelong mourning. The Victorians would probably find our “it's complicated” relationship status hilariously inadequate when they were out there wearing actual human hair woven into intricate patterns to honor their dead. Talk about wearing your heart on your sleeve—or rather, around your neck, on your fingers, and dangling from your ears.

The Romantic Period: When Jewelry Got Cheesy (In the Best Way)

Before the mourning came the romance, and boy did the Victorians know how to accessorize their affections. The early Victorian period (1837-1860) was all about celebrating young Queen Victoria's love story with Prince Albert—think of it as the royal version of a romantic comedy, but with better jewelry. When Albert proposed, he gave Victoria a serpent ring with emerald eyes—her birthstone—which might sound strange until you learn that serpents symbolized eternity in those days. Suddenly that diamond solitaire seems a bit... basic, doesn't it?

This was the era of over-the-top sentimentality, where jewelry became the Victorian equivalent of posting couple photos on Instagram. Popular motifs included flowers, hearts, birds, and bows, often embellished with seed pearls, coral, and turquoise. But the real showstoppers were the acrostic jewelry pieces, where the first letter of each gemstone spelled out secret words. A REGARD ring, for instance, featured Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, and Diamond—because nothing says “I love you” like making your partner decode their jewelry.

Other popular trends included cameos depicting loved ones or classical themes, lockets containing portraits or hair, and feminine designs featuring intricate metalwork like repoussé and cannetille. This was jewelry that wasn't afraid to wear its heart on its sleeve—or rather, around its neck and on its fingers.

The Grand Period: When Things Got Dark (Literally)

Then Prince Albert died in 1861, and the jewelry palette did a complete 180. Welcome to the Grand Period (1860-1880), where mourning wasn't just a private affair—it was a public spectacle with strict fashion rules. Queen Victoria essentially invented the goth aesthetic decades before it became a teenage rebellion phase, swapping her colorful gems for solemn black pieces that would make today's minimalist jewelry look positively exuberant.

Mourning jewelry became the order of the day, but unlike the earlier Georgian era's skulls and skeletons (cheerful stuff), Victorian mourning jewelry focused on remembrance rather than mortality. The most coveted material was jet, a fossilized coal that was black, shiny, and could be carved into exquisite designs. Other popular materials included black enamel, onyx, vulcanite, and gutta-percha—all in various shades of, you guessed it, black.

But here's where things get really personal: hair jewelry. That's right, Victorians would weave the hair of deceased loved ones into intricate patterns and wear them as brooches, bracelets, and rings. While the idea might make us squeamish today, it was the ultimate way to keep someone close—literally. The symbolism didn't stop there: pearls represented tears, white enamel was used for unmarried women and children, and weeping willows, urns, and angels appeared as common motifs.

The mourning process was particularly strict for women, who had to wear black for two to three years during “deep mourning.” Men, meanwhile, got off relatively easy with maybe a black armband—because apparently grief has a gender bias. Still, there's something strangely beautiful about this period's dedication to remembering loved ones, even if the methods were... hair-raising.

The Aesthetic Period: Lightening Up (Finally!)

By the 1880s, everyone was ready for something a little less... funereal. The Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period (1880-1901) marked a dramatic shift toward lighter, more delicate jewelry that prioritized beauty over heavy symbolism. Goodbye, massive mourning brooches; hello, dainty scatter pins and smaller, more feminine designs.

This was the era of “art for art's sake,” where jewelry became less about conveying messages and more about pure aesthetics. Women were joining the workforce and participating in sports (gasp!), so jewelry needed to be practical and comfortable. Sporting motifs appeared, along with celestial themes and Japanese-inspired designs thanks to opened trade routes.

Diamonds became increasingly popular after the discovery of South African mines in 1867, and semiprecious stones like amethyst and opal were valued for their natural beauty rather than their worth. The iconic “dog collar” necklace style became fashionable after Princess Alexandra wore one to cover a scar, and Tiffany & Co.'s introduction of the six-prong solitaire setting in 1886 set the stage for the modern engagement ring.

It was a period of liberation in jewelry design, where women could finally choose pieces that expressed their personal style rather than their marital status or mourning stage. About time, right?

How to Spot Victorian Jewelry (Like a Pro)

So how can you identify genuine Victorian pieces in the wild? Here are some telltale signs that you're looking at the real deal:

First, check the metals. Early Victorian jewelry often used lower-karat gold or gold plating before the California Gold Rush made the precious metal more accessible. Silver became more common after Nevada silver discoveries in the 1860s. Look for intricate metalworking techniques like repoussé (hammered relief designs) and cannetille (wire work resembling filigree).

Gemstone cuts are another giveaway. Victorian pieces typically feature rose cuts (domed tops with flat bottoms), old mine cuts (rounded squares with many facets), or cabochons (rounded, polished stones) rather than today's brilliant cuts. Popular stones included garnet, turquoise, coral, amethyst, and seed pearls.

Motifs evolved throughout the era: romantic period pieces feature natural themes like flowers, snakes, and birds; grand period pieces are dominated by mourning symbols and dark materials; aesthetic period pieces showcase lighter, more delicate designs with Japanese or celestial influences.

And if you come across jewelry incorporating hair, micro-mosaics, or cameos—congratulations, you've likely found a genuine Victorian treasure with stories to tell.

Bringing Victorian Vibes to Your Modern Style

The wonderful thing about Victorian jewelry is how beautifully it translates to contemporary fashion. Those sentimental lockets your grandmother loved? Totally Victorian. The serpent rings currently trending? Queen Victoria would approve. The stackable rings you can't stop wearing? The Victorians were there first.

At Robinson's Jewelers, we see how these historic pieces inspire modern designers in our collections every day. The romance of Victorian design lives on in the intricate details of Oscar Heyman pieces, the timeless elegance of Mikimoto pearls, and the artistic flair of Sofer Jewelry designs.

Whether you're drawn to the dark drama of mourning jewelry or the sweet sentimentality of acrostic rings, there's a Victorian style that speaks to every personality. The next time you fasten a bracelet or slide on a ring, remember that you're participating in a tradition that dates back to an era when jewelry wasn't just decoration—it was a language all its own.

So go ahead, wear your heart on your sleeve—or your neck, or your fingers. The Victorians would definitely approve.