Mourning Jewelry: The Macabre Victorian Fashion Explained (And Why It's Strangely Beautiful)

Picture this: you’re at a fancy party in 1850, and your best friend compliments your stunning jet bead necklace. You thank her and casually mention, “It was my grandmother’s… well, part of her, anyway.” Cue the record scratch. Welcome to the wonderfully weird world of Victorian mourning jewelry, where fashion was dark, sentimentality was everything, and wearing a lock of your dead uncle’s hair was considered the height of good taste. Before you shudder and click away, hear us out—this macabre trend is a fascinating chapter in jewelry history that speaks to a deep, human desire to keep our loved ones close, literally. It’s a story of love, loss, and some seriously creative accessorizing.

Today, we’re diving deep into the cobweb-covered corners of this historical phenomenon. We’ll unpack the symbolism, explore the sometimes-shocking materials used, and discover why this “morbid” aesthetic is having a quiet revival. While we might not be weaving hair into our bracelets anymore (thank goodness), the desire for jewelry that tells a story and holds deep meaning is stronger than ever. From symbolic serpent motifs representing eternity to the dark elegance of onyx rings, the legacy of mourning jewelry lives on.

Why Were the Victorians So … Extra About Death?

To understand the jewelry, you have to understand the context. The Victorians didn’t have a morbid obsession with death; they had a practical one. In an era before modern medicine, death was a frequent and familiar visitor. High infant mortality rates, diseases like tuberculosis and cholera, and bloody conflicts like the American Civil War meant that losing loved ones was a common, heartbreaking reality. Queen Victoria herself set the standard for public mourning after the death of her beloved Prince Albert in 1861. She wore black crepe and jet jewelry for the remaining forty years of her life, making elaborate mourning rituals a national pastime.

Mourning wasn’t just about sadness; it was a complex social performance with strict rules. There were stages of mourning—full mourning, half-mourning—each with its own dictated attire and duration. Jewelry was a crucial part of this, serving as a public badge of grief and respect. But it was also deeply personal, a private token of remembrance that could be worn long after the black dresses were put away. It was the Victorian equivalent of carrying a loved one’s photo in your locket, just… a bit more literal.

Not Just Black: The Secret Language of Symbols

While stark black jewelry is what most people picture, mourning pieces were filled with a rich vocabulary of symbols. Each motif whispered a specific message about loss, hope, and the afterlife.

The Urn: A classic symbol of death, representing the body returning to dust.
Weeping Willows: Signified sorrow and mourning.
Anchor: Symbolized hope and steadfastness. You can find modern interpretations in our anchor jewelry collection.
Serpents: Eating their own tails (ouroboros), they symbolized eternity and the cycle of life. A motif famously used by the great Victorian-era jeweler Cartier and still popular today.
Clasped Hands: Represented a final farewell or a heavenly greeting.
Ivy: Symbolized eternal life and friendship.

These symbols turned each piece of jewelry into a narrative, a small storybook pinned to a lapel or worn around the wrist.

The Materials: From Jet to… Well, You Know

This is where things get interesting. The materials used ranged from the elegant to the “wait, what?”

Jet: This was the superstar of mourning jewelry. Jet is a type of fossilized wood that can be polished to a deep, shiny black. It was lightweight and relatively affordable, making it the go-to material for everything from beads to intricate brooches. Queen Victoria’s preference made it incredibly fashionable.

Black Enamel: Used on gold or silver, black enamel was a popular way to create dark, somber pieces adorned with the symbols mentioned above. The contrast between the shiny metal and the matte black enamel was strikingly beautiful.

Onyx, Vulcanite, & Gutta-Percha: Other dark materials were used to achieve the required look. Onyx, a banded black stone, was popular for men’s rings and signet rings.

Hair: Okay, here’s the big one. Human hair was the most intimate material used. It was literally a part of the deceased person. Hair is surprisingly durable and could be woven into incredibly complex patterns, braided, curled, and placed under glass in rings, brooches, necklaces, and watch chains. It was also common to have jewelry made from the hair of living loved ones as a sentimental token. Think of it as the ultimate personalized jewelry.

Whitby Jet: A specific, high-quality jet from Whitby, England, was considered the finest available. Pieces made from true Whitby jet are highly sought after by collectors of estate and vintage jewelry today.

From Macabre to Modern: The Legacy Lives On

While the strict rules of Victorian mourning have (thankfully) faded, the aesthetic and emotional core of this jewelry continues to inspire. The modern “dark academia” or “witchy” aesthetic often draws on these themes. The desire for meaningful, symbolic jewelry is alive and well.

You can see echoes of mourning jewelry in many contemporary pieces:

Symbolic Motifs: Serpent rings from designers like Bvlgari echo the eternity symbolism. Tree of Life pendants represent connection and continuity.

Dark Stones: The love for onyx, black diamonds, and even dark sapphires continues the tradition of elegant dark jewelry that isn’t necessarily about mourning, but about sophisticated style.

Lockets: The classic locket is a direct descendant. Instead of hair, we tuck in photos or tiny notes, achieving the same goal: keeping a loved one close to our heart.

Personalization: The Victorian urge to personalize is bigger than ever. Initial rings, charm bracelets that tell a story, and pieces engraved with significant dates all fulfill that same human need for connection and memory.

Finding Your Own Meaningful Piece at Robinson’s

You don’t need to hunt for antique hairwork to own a piece of jewelry with profound meaning. At Robinson’s Jewelers, we believe every piece you choose should tell your story. Whether it’s a classic diamond solitaire that marks an eternal commitment, a vibrant sapphire ring that captures a birth month, or a sleek piece from EFFY that just makes you feel powerful, your jewelry is an extension of you.

For those who are drawn to the unique history and symbolic depth of true antique pieces, our curated collection of Estate & Vintage Jewelry offers a treasure trove of finds with stories whispering from the past. Or, explore the darkly elegant designs of modern masters like Pasquale Bruni or the timeless pieces from Oscar Heyman.

The Victorians might have had a unique way of expressing it, but their core idea remains true: jewelry is so much more than decoration. It’s a vessel for memory, a token of love, and a way to carry our history with us. So, the next time you fasten your necklace or slide on a ring, think about the story it tells. Even if it’s not made of hair, we promise it’s still pretty cool.