Mourning Jewelry: The Intricate, Sentimental, and Often Morbid Jewelry of the Victorian Era
Imagine wearing a locket containing a loved one's hair, or a ring engraved with a skull to remind you of life's fleeting nature. Welcome to the fascinating world of Victorian mourning jewelry, where grief was worn as art and death was a constant companion. In an era when the average lifespan was just 40-45 years and children had a one-in-three chance of dying before age five, mortality wasn't just a philosophical concept—it was a daily reality. Queen Victoria herself set the trend after the death of her beloved Prince Albert in 1861, plunging into a black-clad mourning that would last four decades and influence an entire generation's approach to grief. These pieces weren't merely macabre fashion statements; they were tangible connections to departed loved ones, wearable memories that kept the deceased close to the heart—sometimes quite literally.
Today, we might swap Instagrammable jewelry for special occasions, but Victorians had a more sober approach to accessories. Their mourning jewelry represented a complex language of loss, love, and remembrance that seems foreign in our era of quick recoveries and moving on. Yet there's something strangely compelling about these darkly beautiful pieces that continues to captivate collectors and history buffs. Let's unravel the mysterious symbolism, materials, and social customs behind this unique jewelry tradition that turned grief into wearable art.
From Macabre to Sentimental: The Evolution of Mourning Symbols
Early Georgian-era mourning jewelry (pre-1837) featured decidedly grim motifs—skulls, coffins, hourglasses, and grave-digging tools that delivered a stark "memento mori" (remember you must die) message. But as the Victorian era progressed, the symbolism softened considerably. The harsh reminders of mortality gave way to more comforting images: weeping willows, draped urns, angels, clouds, and women lamenting at tombs. This shift reflected changing attitudes toward death and the afterlife—God was increasingly viewed as a benevolent father rather than a stern judge, and the imagery in mourning jewelry evolved accordingly.
The materials spoke their own symbolic language. Jet, a fossilized coal that could be polished to a deep black shine, became the most sought-after material for mourning pieces, particularly after Queen Victoria made it fashionable. Other dark materials like vulcanite, gutta percha, onyx, and French jet (molded glass) also gained popularity. White enamel specifically indicated the death of a child or unmarried woman, while pearls symbolized tears. Even the color turquoise made appearances, meaning "thinking of you" in the language of gemstones.
The Hair-Raising Truth About Victorian Memorial Jewelry
If you think today's personalized jewelry is meaningful, consider this: Victorians regularly wore jewelry containing actual hair from deceased loved ones. This might seem strange today, but hair held special significance—it was considered somewhat imperishable (unlike the body) and was thought to contain something of the essence of the person. The practice became so popular that England was importing 50 tons of hair annually by the mid-1800s to meet demand.
Hair was incorporated into jewelry in astonishingly creative ways: woven into intricate patterns, placed under glass in lockets, braided into chains for watches and pendants, and even used to create detailed miniature scenes. Beyond jewelry, hair was also used in larger memorial art pieces displayed in homes. The craftsmanship involved was extraordinary—some pieces feature hair so finely woven it resembles silk thread. This wasn't just morbid sentimentality; it was a way to maintain a physical connection to those who had passed, keeping them literally close at hand.
Rules, Rules, and More Rules: The Strict Etiquette of Victorian Mourning
Victorian society didn't leave grief to chance—elaborate rules governed every aspect of mourning, particularly for women. The mourning period for a widow typically lasted two to three years, during which she was expected to wear only black clothing and black jewelry during the "deep mourning" phase. Social activities were severely restricted, and those who didn't comply faced social shunning. As one historian noted, mourning was "an outward display of what your inner feelings were supposed to be at the time."
Men, meanwhile, "got off so easy" in the words of antique jewelry dealer Lenore Dailey. They might wear a black suit, armband, or hatband, but faced few social restrictions since they needed to work and potentially find a new wife to help with children. The double standard was stark, but it created a booming market for appropriate mourning attire and jewelry. The wealthy might commission elaborate pieces featuring precious materials, while the emerging middle class sought more affordable options like hairwork or simpler designs.
Types of Mourning Jewelry: From Rings to Lockets
Mourning jewelry came in many forms, each with its own purpose and placement. Rings were perhaps the most common, often given to family members and close friends. These typically featured the name, age, and date of death of the deceased, sometimes accompanied by symbolic imagery. Lockets were another popular form, containing miniatures, photographs, or hair of the departed. Brooches were pinned close to the heart, while bracelets and pendants served as more visible reminders.
The types of mourning jewelry evolved along with technology. The development of photography led to photographic jewelry containing tiny images of the deceased. Ambrotypes (glass plate photographs) and later tintypes were incorporated into pieces that could be worn or carried. Similarly, changes in manufacturing techniques made jewelry more accessible to different social classes. What began as a practice primarily for the wealthy eventually trickled down to the middle class, particularly during events like the American Civil War that created massive demand for memorial items.
From Mourning to Modern: The Legacy of Victorian Memorial Jewelry
By the time of Queen Victoria's death in 1901, and certainly after the horrors of World War I, elaborate mourning customs had fallen out of favor. Changing attitudes toward death, combined with the practicalities of modern life, made years-long mourning periods increasingly uncommon. Yet the legacy of mourning jewelry continues in unexpected ways.
Today, you'll find contemporary interpretations of memento mori symbolism in skull jewelry and other designs that play with mortality themes. While we might not incorporate hair into our personalized necklaces anymore, the desire to keep loved ones close through jewelry remains strong. Modern memorial jewelry might contain ashes, fingerprints, or other meaningful elements that continue the Victorian tradition of wearable remembrance.
Collecting Victorian Mourning Jewelry Today
For antique jewelry enthusiasts, Victorian mourning pieces offer a fascinating collecting niche. Prices can range from a few hundred dollars for simpler pieces to thousands for exceptional examples with high-quality materials and craftsmanship. When evaluating pieces, look for hallmarks, quality of materials, and condition. Jet should feel warm and light (it's a fossilized wood, after all), while vulcanite may show signs of oxidation. Hairwork should be intricate and well-preserved.
These historical pieces can be found at antique shows, through specialized dealers, and occasionally in estate jewelry collections. For those new to collecting, recommended reading includes "In Death Lamented: The Tradition of Anglo-American Mourning Jewelry" by Sarah Nehama, which offers excellent background on the subject. Whether you're drawn to the historical significance, the craftsmanship, or the poignant stories behind these pieces, mourning jewelry offers a unique window into how previous generations navigated loss and remembrance.
Beyond Black: The Enduring Appeal of Sentimental Jewelry
While strict mourning customs have faded, the human desire to commemorate loved ones through jewelry hasn't disappeared. Today, we might mark relationships with engagement rings, family jewelry, or pieces celebrating special moments. The Victorians simply approached this impulse with their characteristic blend of practicality, sentimentality, and elaborate ritual.
Next time you fasten a locket or slip on a ring with personal significance, remember that you're participating in a tradition that spans centuries—though hopefully with less black crepe and social restriction. The specific forms may change, but the fundamental human need to keep our loved ones close, to remember and be remembered, remains constant. Victorian mourning jewelry represents one of the most elaborate and artistic expressions of this timeless impulse, turning grief into beauty and loss into lasting art.