A History of Hairwork Jewelry: When Loved Ones Wore Each Other's Hair - The Surprisingly Touching Tradition You Never Knew Existed

Picture this: your sweetheart goes off to war, and instead of texting you heart emojis, they mail you a lock of their hair to weave into a bracelet. Sounds bizarre today, but in the 19th century, hairwork jewelry was the ultimate romantic gesture. Forget initial rings or heart pendants—Victorian lovers were literally wearing pieces of each other. This wasn't some gothic horror show; it was the most intimate connection two people could share when photography was rare and separations could last years. The practice might make us squeamish now, but there's something oddly beautiful about carrying your beloved's actual DNA in an elegant brooch rather than just their Instagram likes.

The tradition peaked during the Victorian era, when Queen Victoria herself popularized mourning customs after Prince Albert's death. Suddenly, everyone from aristocrats to middle-class families was commissioning intricate pieces featuring hair from deceased relatives. These weren't macabre mementos but beautiful works of art that kept loved ones close—sometimes literally around one's neck in a locket or on one's wrist as a tennis bracelet predecessor. The craftsmanship was astonishing, with artisans creating everything from simple woven patterns to elaborate scenes of weeping willows and urns.

The Surprisingly Complex Art of Hair Weaving

Creating hairwork jewelry wasn't a DIY craft you'd find on Pinterest. Specialized artisans called hairworkers trained for years to master the techniques. The process began with sorting and cleaning the hair (yes, really), then boiling it to make it pliable. The most skilled workers could create over 300 different patterns, from simple braids to elaborate floral designs that rivaled the detail in our modern Gumuchian collections.

Hair came in various shades—blonde, brown, black, and even gray—which artists would sometimes combine to create patterns, much like the colorful gemstones in our rainbow jewelry collection. The most elaborate pieces incorporated multiple family members' hair, creating a literal family tree you could wear. Talk about taking "family jewelry" to a whole new level!

Not Just for Mourning: The Romantic Side of Hair Jewelry

While we often associate hairwork with mourning pieces (the 19th century equivalent of keeping your partner's hoodie), these creations served many purposes. Lovers exchanged hair tokens as promises of fidelity—the ultimate "I'm taken" statement before promise rings became trendy. Soldiers carried hair from wives and sweethearts into battle, much like modern military personnel might carry a dog tag with a photo.

Friends exchanged hair jewelry to commemorate their bonds, creating the Victorian version of friendship bracelets. Families might commission pieces containing hair from every member, creating wearable family portraits. The sentiment behind these pieces reminds me of today's popularity of charm bracelets that tell personal stories, just with slightly... hairier components.

Why Hair? The Symbolism Behind the Strands

Hair held powerful symbolic meaning in the 19th century. Unlike flowers that wilted or photographs that faded, hair was considered virtually indestructible—a permanent part of a person's essence. This belief made it the perfect medium for memorializing relationships. The practice connects to our modern love for infinity jewelry symbolizing eternal bonds, just with more... biology involved.

There was also a practical side: hair doesn't decay like other organic materials. Many 200-year-old hairwork pieces survive in perfect condition today, while the silk ribbons and metal components around them show more wear. The durability of hairwork puts even our finest diamond jewelry to the test when it comes to standing the test of time.

The Decline of Hairwork and Its Modern Echoes

So what killed the hairwork trend? The rise of photography made personal mementos more accessible, and changing fashion sensibilities after World War I made the practice seem old-fashioned. The final nail in the coffin came when mass-produced jewelry became affordable, making custom hairwork less practical.

But the sentiment behind hairwork lives on in modern jewelry trends. Today's initial rings, bar necklaces with meaningful dates, and even fingerprint jewelry serve the same purpose: keeping loved ones close in a personal, meaningful way. At Robinson's Jewelers, we see couples creating their own traditions with Toi et Moi rings or padlock jewelry symbolizing their unbreakable bonds.

Would You Wear Hair Jewelry Today?

While most of us wouldn't swap our Roberto Coin pieces for hairwork brooches, the underlying desire remains the same: we want tangible connections to those we love. Maybe that's why lab-grown diamond jewelry has become so popular—it represents modern innovation while maintaining that emotional significance.

At Robinson's Jewelers, we honor both tradition and innovation. While we don't work in hair (our artisans prefer diamonds and precious metals), we understand the deep human need for meaningful jewelry. Whether it's an engagement ring that starts a new chapter or an anniversary band that celebrates years together, the best jewelry always tells a story.

So the next time you fasten your tennis bracelet or adjust your lariat necklace, remember the Victorians who took personal jewelry to the most personal level imaginable. Their hairwork creations might seem strange today, but the love behind them is timeless—just like the beautiful pieces in our estate and vintage jewelry collection that continue to carry stories forward.